eSpeedZone is brand new. The photos on this site right now are stock images, not my gear — every single one is labelled. Real build photos go up as I build and photograph each rig. I don’t post photos of rigs I don’t own. — Ethan

Buying used, safely

Used gear is how a small budget becomes a real rig. It’s also the part of this hobby where things can actually go wrong — so this page exists before any of the fun ones.

If you’re under 18, read this part with a parent

  • Never go alone. Take a parent or an adult. Every time, even if it feels over the top.
  • Never meet at a house — not theirs, not yours. Meet in a busy public place in daylight.
  • Many police stations have a designated exchange zone with cameras, specifically for this. Use it. Anyone unwilling to meet there is telling you something.
  • Tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
  • Don’t carry a large amount of cash visibly, and don’t hand it over before you’ve tested the item.
  • If anything feels off, leave. No wheel is worth it. There will be another one next week — there always is.

Testing a wheel in ten minutes

Ask to plug it in before money changes hands. A seller who won’t let you test it is either hiding something or hasn’t tested it themselves.

  1. Watch the startup. Every force-feedback wheel calibrates when it powers on — it turns itself lock to lock. It should be smooth and it should centre. Grinding, stopping short, or not moving at all is a dead motor or stripped gears.
  2. Turn it by hand with power off. Feel for notches, crunching, or a dead spot.
  3. Check every pedal. Press each one fully. Look for cracks around the mounting points — that’s where they break.
  4. Inspect the cables, especially where they enter the pedal base. Fraying there is common and annoying to fix.
  5. Confirm what’s included. Power supply, pedal cable, mounting clamp. A wheel without its power brick is much less of a bargain than it looks.
  6. Check the version. A G29 is not a G920. Read the label on the underside yourself — don’t take the listing's word for it.

Scams to know

  • “I’ll ship it, just send the money first.” No. Pay in person, or use a platform with buyer protection.
  • Photos that look like a shop listing. Ask for a photo of the actual item next to a handwritten note with today’s date. Real sellers do this without complaint.
  • Price far below everything else. There’s usually a reason, and it’s usually broken or stolen.
  • Pressure to decide immediately. Urgency is a tactic. Real sellers wait.

What a fair used price looks like

Rough guide, not gospel: a working entry wheel with pedals typically goes for roughly half to two-thirds of new. Below half, ask why. Above two-thirds, buy new and get a warranty.

Do the maths before you go

A Thrustmaster T128 is $229.99 brand new with a warranty. If a used one is $190, buy the new one. Used only makes sense when the discount is real.

Stock photo — not eSpeedZone’s gearAn organised garage workshop with tools on the wall
Where a lot of used gear comes from — someone's garage clear-out.
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